Fashion

a return marked by avant-garde design


Translated by

Roberta HERRERA

Published



April 8, 2022

The pandemic has put the fashion industry’s small and medium-sized events to the ultimate test. Limited by security measures, travel restrictions, and donor withdrawals, some have chosen to delay their dates until they find a more optimal time, while others accept an extension. rise of digital events as an alternative in turbulent times. There is also a third scenario, incorporated from the outset by ModaLisboa, which is to combine the physical format with the digital support platform. This intermediate strategy means a struggle to survive, as was the case with Lisbon fashion week. With the long-awaited return to normal, let’s take a look at the collections showcased at the event featuring characters who have weathered the storm.

Behind the scenes of Béhén’s fashion show – ModaLisboa

The event’s international coordinator, Lígia Gonçalves said: “We fought hard to stand our ground, live up to our values. We couldn’t be prouder to still be here” to downsize. of it, is now slowly recovering. In its final edition to be held from March 10-13, the fashion event bets on establishing a creative partnership, moving the event to a new location: the Hub Criativo do factory Beato of the Lisboa Factory, located on the outskirts of the city. Formerly intended to house companies and factories, the site now embarks on a journey in which its industrial architecture becomes the setting where initiatives take place. ​starting from many industries, not just fashion.

Lisbon City Hall’s commitment to fashion

The new venue, which offers a good dose of innovation and an element of fun in relation to Berlin and London, the event organized in partnership with Lisbon City Hall managed to present 26 collections , brings together 10,000 attendees, while its conferences and fashion shows have racked up 465,000 total views, between streaming, internet, social media, and ModaLisboa’s own app. The Mayor of Lisbon, Carlos Moedas, said: “It is a special moment, a year of post-pandemic recovery, in which the physical has once again taken center stage in our lives, while the ‘meta’ ‘ transform them on a daily basis,” said the mayor of Lisbon, Carlos Moedas. The concept of the final edition revolved around the “Metaverse”.

João Magalhães – ModaLisboa

“This is the perfect place to host this iconic initiative. It’s a futuristic space that represents a new vision for Lisbon: a city found in the energy of disruption, launching a new generation of creators into a space filled with creative freedom, innovation, “continued, the mayor of the city underlined his support for” Portugal’s talent and ability turning fashion into an example of sustainability and responsibility”, said a keynote held on the opening day of the event. Meanwhile, Eduarda Abbondanza, president of the ModaLisboa Association, defended the city’s commitment to bringing “continuity, evolution and openness” to the city. “We are back, in keeping with Lisbon’s stance, focusing on the dazzling intersection of fashion, technology, innovation, entrepreneurship, art and culture,” she said.

“We focused on invisible fabrics that unite them: complete freedom of speech, independence, identity, empathy, mutual support. However, we didn’t know we were going to apply. them in the context of atrocities in Europe,” they explained. Complicated global issues have been dominating fashion events since the outbreak of war in Ukraine, which runs parallel to Milan Fashion Week. In solidarity with the Ukrainian people, ModaLisboa has partnered with Unicef ​​Portugal to raise funds, and additionally, several designers broke their silence during their presentation. Blue and yellow also dominate the cover of the latest issue of Vogue Portugal.

Luis Carvalho – ModaLisboa

As is customary at ModaLisboa, the first day of the program brings attendees to a series of conferences and talks with industry experts. Presented by Joana Barrios and structured in a “guidance” format, it reflects on technology with companies like Yahoo, Farfetch, Vasquiat, Skinvades, and contributions by Klarna. Sustainability is also discussed alongside industry names such as Guess, Pangaia, CLASS and Tintex Textiles.

Portuguese brands in need of attention

In addition to the emerging brands presented in the Sangue Novo competition, awards to local designers Maria Clara and Filipe Cerejo in this year’s edition; ModaLisboa is again characterized by innovation and avant-garde collections, such as the one presented by João Magalhães, who chose a performance inspired by “Venus and the Clouds”. lone cloud”. The lineup combined Catholic iconography with the urban environment, and the parade combined filming and dancing.

Sustainable brand Béhen, known for making garments from classic Portuguese tablecloths or various home textiles, has added a certain goodbye with “Adeus, hasta ao meu regresso” (Goodbye, until I return). The collection is steeped in folklore of several colorful fabrics, short coats, puff sleeves, cut fabrics or jackets made with traditional Azores sewing techniques, as well as waistbands. fit and some embroidery in the arsenal.

Constanca Entrudo – ModaLisboa

“We are continuing to increase the number of artisans we work with, that is the mission of this project. Fashion is how we pass on these traditional techniques and arts to new generations.” , recalls Joana Duarte, the designer behind the company founded just two years ago. . “Fashion can be a bit overwhelming and we have to put this on the balance sheet. We need to be transparent about what it means to work in this industry and how difficult it is. I’m still trying. understand the best way to organize How to work with ingenuity Organizing fashion shows and showcases twice a year, working with some of our craft techniques, sometimes It’s a bit too stressful,” she said of the rapidly evolving industry, and that she could “see you later”.

While Duarte draws inspiration from street dance to create colorful casual sportswear and Buzina captivates with her collection of soaring and sophisticated Scandinavian dresses, Hibu entertains the crowd with the casual streetwear show was inspired by the nineties, with baggy pants, lavender and green tones, and vinyl looks. Meanwhile, Filipe Augusto redesigned men’s wear in pastel colors, Ricardo Andrez improved workwear with a dark blue color in a collection full of ballet sets and Constança Entrudo organized a The showcase is inspired by the everyday wardrobe and paintings of Adolf Gottlieb. Older designers include Luis Buchinho, who blends minimalist silhouettes with reminiscent of rock star glamor, while Luìs Carvalho showcases his tailoring skills through through elegant jacquard and taffeta garments for both men and women.

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