Fashion

Alexander McQueen returns to NYC after 20 years with a nature-inspired show


There was a lot of discussion about mushrooms before Alexander McQueen Fall 2022 fashion show. As soon as the trailers started appearing literally as (virtual) mushroompeople started to wonder if it was a sign that the group was going to debut mushroom skin (see: Stella McCartney) or feature mushrooms in (Rodarte, Brandon Maxwell). Or even: Did lead designer Sarah Burton engage in some sort of hallucination in preparation for what is bound to be a triple collection?

The answer came on Tuesday. As is the case with most things that British luxury homes have to offer, they are far more refined than one might expect. As explained in the show notes, the new collection is not inspired by mushrooms (or mushrooms) but mycelium, the vegetative part of fungi, and “essentially a long-lived community.” life is much more than ours. ”

“Mycelium connects even the rooftop of the tallest skyscraper with plants, with grass, with the ground, with animals and people. The mycelium has the deepest bonding power, relaying messages through a magical structure underground, allowing the plants to reach out to each other when they or their young need help or are sick,” notes uncle wrote. “We exist as separate entities, single on one level, but we are more strongly connected to each other, to our family, to our friends, to our community.”

This happened in the setup. As guests sit wrapped around piles of fallen tree mulch in an industrial warehouse – no different from the synagogue-turned community center on the Lower East Side, where McQueen performed 26 years ago – in the Navy Yard Unfashionable Brooklyn troops, a soundtrack of birds and insects fills the air.

The collection is also relevant for those of us who have stayed in the cities since the pandemic hit two years ago while simultaneously yearning for the woods and pastoral fields as we are stranded. in his apartment. To the sound of “A Forest” by The Cure, the models stepped out in full-body leather dresses in colors ranging from black to sunny yellow; asymmetrical moto jacket with a soft, flowing hem; and unravel the sweaters – like the sweaters for New Yorkers.

As always, the highlight of Burton’s collection was the razor-sharp trim, especially the tinted ties reminiscent of one of the late Lee Alexander McQueen’s most famous looks: the dress. crank white, drawn directly by robot. at the brand Spring Program 1999. Matching many of the house’s signature looks, the red carpet-ready dresses have been reimagined with shorter hemlines – including a crystal encrusted one-shoulder, mycelium-inspired gown. modeled by Kaia Gerber – and silhouettes are more functional, in a tuxedo blazer with a slit chest. And while there are traces of more obvious mushroom-inspired fashion in the form of an acid green tunic and mushroom-print trousers and decorated camisole, they’re still far from the fun parts. The best taste is seen on the runway.

It’s possible that viewers never intended to look for clues in the show’s trailers or even in the costumes shown then. Bur instead spends that time interacting with our community, which, as the brand note puts it, “restores, regenerates, rejuvenates – heals”.

Watch the full show below (starts at 59:10):

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