Christian Dior collaborates with the ghost of Christian Dior

Kim Jones’s reputation as an ongoing collaborator – a visual artist like Peter Doig a season, a Jack Kerouac property and another Beat Generation mood – means that his collections for Christian Dior, although generally consistent in form and material, still has an element of suspense in the days leading up to each show. He teases everything on Instagram, and fashion fans wonder who his muse or accomplice will be this time. Earlier this week we got to see the rhinestones – a grid of their chandeliers on a pair of gray gloves and shiny black shoes. It’s like a celebration of fashion. What creator is formidable enough to take on that?!

This year marks the 75th anniversary of the founding of the fashion house founded by Christian Dior. So in Fall 2022, Jones decided to design the collection alone, like: “Kim Jones engages in a wonderful conversation and connection,” the press writes, “with Christian Dior himself. ” It’s basically Jones dancing with his master’s ghost, a spiritual partnership, if you will. Christian Dior x Christian Dior.

“I wanted to look at the archive, at the purity of the house’s early days, at its original impulse,” says Jones. GQ. “We looked at the original collections and focused on the architecture, taking these elements and transforming them almost instinctively in a masculine way for today, always keeping the joie de vivre style in mind. at the heart of Christian Dior clothing.”

Courtesy of Dior.

Another rough cut Bar jacket.

Courtesy of Dior.

Dior is such a heavyweight in fashion that it’s hard to know exactly what it means – the ideas the designer invented are so powerful, so fundamental to our understanding of the world. elegance and savoir, to the extent that “Dior” is practically synonymous with fashion. He was a master of silhouette, embellishment, spectacle and fantasy; if you close your eyes and think “high fashion”, what you see is probably a big strapless dress with a small waist and a giant skirt, which is basically his bread and butter.

Lily of the Valley.

Courtesy of Dior.

The Bar Jacket for men.

Courtesy of Dior.

So Jones filled the collection with some of Dior’s biggest signatures. Features the popular Bar jacket, the “number eight” architectural style with a cinched waist and padded hips, reinterpreted for men with a soft, wrap-around silhouette. Dior’s favorite gray, the color of the Parisian sky on a rainy day, is the basis for the collection’s palette. The collection takes place on a backdrop modeled on the Paris bridge – a metaphor for Jones, but also reminiscent of the many locations of the Richard Avedon photographs that underpin the Dior image. And then there’s a lot of Dior’s own indulgence: roses, a Dior print sourced from the sugarcane chairs in Paris, and the designer’s favorite scent of Lily of the Valley. Even the Birkenstock collab is a nod to Dior, aiming for a modern interpretation of the garden shoes the designer wore when tending to his bed.


Courtesy of Dior.



Part of what makes Jones’ approach to Dior unique is his interest in Dior as a person, and as a personality beyond a flashy, glossy name. He was an excellent reader, a gardener, and a believer in mysticism. He is a romantic, a lover of textures, volumes and ideas. It turned the giant spectacle of what Jones was doing, and the brand’s overwhelming luxury, into something human. As fashion begins to reboot with a new twist, Jones cherishes that there is something eternal, something classic, about Dior that transcends any single designer’s touch. Jones is a king of cool, and has redefined that word for the home by collaborating with Stussy and featuring young Ghanian artist Amoako Boafo. But his insistence on approaching Dior as a historical figure, rather than as a code system revived by the designer for the time being, is possibly the most contemporary thing about him.

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