Fashion

Day Five of Paris Menswear: Loewe, Vuarnet and Hermès


All about breaking boundaries this Saturday in Paris during menswear season; between clothing and accessories at Loewe; weekends and work chez Hermès; mountains and clubs at Vuarnet.

Loewe – Light for the world

A quarter of the looks in Loewe’s latest menswear show are illuminated from within, in the latest collection by fashion house Jonathan Anderson, whose vision is the freshest in menswear. present world.

Loewe Fall/Winter 2022 Collection in Paris – Loewe

Bright white LED strip around waistband; peeking out of his coat; beaded overalls or decorative cardigans; and wandered in crazy patterns in flesh-colored knitted tops.

“The idea of ​​light for the world. For we all live in this illuminated existence. Something spiritual,” explained Anderson after the show, held at a giant indoor tennis court in the western suburbs of Paris.

In fact, every look contains something unexpected – like a Flamenco bag that turns into a hushpuppy boot, or wool gloves, whose fingers become tentacles scratching the floor.

“Breaking boundaries; between clothes and accessories; androgyny; and there are no limits,” commented the Northern Irish designer.

Presented among a series of giant ribbons hanging from slanted aluminum masks, like ripped flags, with the entire floor space covered in sand. Looks like nothing, including a trio of brightly colored daytime-looking rubber jackets made of see-through rubber. These turn out to be semi-transparent, almost glowing leather with visible underwear underneath.

Warming up to his borderless terrain, Anderson also sent out a number of top coats, woven with denim shorts and belts, to create clever l’oeil jackets and zany tails.

Another of his big ideas – jackets and outerwear with a recessed mesh strainer.

“Well, we wake up every day with them. First thing in the morning you stand in the shower! Plus, I like the idea of ​​things that aren’t so out of the ordinary,” laughed Anderson, wearing a mask as he spoke to several editors.

Vuongrnet – Cool dynamic sports in the Alps

Vuarnet, the iconic French sunglasses brand, is back in fashion with some style, and believable and goofy sustainability, led by Boramy Viguier. A designer known for outside shows and videos – one season shows inside Bourse de Paris, another season does Disney -Game of Thrones warrior combo videos.

Vuarnet Fall/Winter 2022 Collection in Paris – Vuarnet

But at Vuarnet, he focuses on active sportswear – overalls, boiler suits, ski jackets and racing pants – albeit with some sort of winter club coat.

Primarily made in black and white and benefit from Viguier’s graphic confidence and keen eye for details. The designer completed most of the looks with the famous V on the ski logo engraved in every shade of Vuarnet. They all look strong and reliable, and are made primarily of recycled materials.

“It’s about enjoying the grandeur of the mountains. An almost spiritual feel and brings something of that mood into the collection,” says Viguier,

Vuarnet has been on an upward trajectory since being acquired by ANCHOR Investment partner. Vuarnet has also been a pioneer in sustainability since its founding in 1957. Named after Los Angeles gold-winning downhill champion Jean Vuarnet, the brand prides itself on designs. 100% natural and recyclable, a quality not commonly found in eyewear, nor until recently in fashion.

All announced in new, ongoing Dover Street Market in the Marais. A giant screen for the show video: the classic spy thriller armchair; Alpine study table with candles; a great variety of skiers’ colors; cool fun ski gloves; and, in a generous gesture, bottles of Génépi, the French liqueur that warmed the hearts of many skiers on the last run of the day.

So, the strong return of la mode by Vuarnet, led by Boramy excitement, was fueled by a great gallery video shot in the fast Alpine mountains near Chambèry.

“I will be honest and say I was surprised they chose me. But they let me follow my vision. And the check was cleared. Just kidding! ‘ Boramy laughed enthusiastically.

Hermes – Luxury street fighting man

You know that triangle shorts are winning the pants wars when a brand like Hermès introduces them in its latest menswear show.

Hermès Fall/Winter 2022 Collection in Paris – Hermès

All new pants are cut at 2 inches high and paired with turtleneck boots – many in metallic and silver, whether Chelsea, pony or bovver boots. Luxury street fighting man.

A radical move for Hermès and for menswear designer Véronique Nichanian, who is always at his best when it comes to taking a few risks.

Véronique also introduces a new Kelly man bag, a deeper version with attached side pockets. A trick she’s used in her nylon sci-fi crop tops and blouses. In a stylish presentation at Mobilier National, decorated with vintage rugs, hung next to virtual replicas of the same rugs displayed on a large flat screen.

Proportions work smart, Nichanian cuts some great weekend pieces in mustard calfskin, green taiga; black porosus crocodile. While her two-tone crop top with contrasting interior will set a major trend

And all of her Canadians, the French term for a four-pocket winter backpack, come with just the right amount of oversized and ruffled lapels. Inject some chic hipster rock glamor.

There’s the weird puffy top – never a forte for Hermès – and an oddly padded slit, but overall this is a highly coveted menswear collection, by the most posh house in Paris. that the designer still has the guts to get out of her comfort zone after three decades of her work.

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