Friday in Paris Menswear is a city tour from a mission church, stone-cut castle, Marais gallery and Place des Victoires townhouse. We caught up with Jil Sander, Paul Smith, Isabel Marant and Jeanerica.
Jil Sander – Catabolism in the Yankee Church
Masculine design with feminine details in a sensational collection at Jil Sander, adorned with occasional spooky astrological signs and held inside the American Cathedral in Paris.
The looming gothic renaissance Yankee Church is illuminated with giant cinematic lights, the better to enjoy the power of this winter 2022 collection.
Composed in large volumes, but never grandiose, with proportions like a mantle of genius, and made of plush cashmere herring, lustrous tuxedo and cream cashmeres.
Work with a dark palette of black, putty, burnt orange with a glass of ecru soupcon. Pretty well everything is enhanced by lace or hook inserts, adding charm and aplomb. They all look a lot like home beneath the soaring oak arches, stone pillars and marble columns.
Although the best ideas are eight funnel-neck coats, turtlenecks, cotton tops and even pajamas covered in a vibrant layer of stencils. The astrological signs of mean goats and naughty demons along with Taurus, Aries and Virgo.
It’s all secured by chunky boots with metal brandings, rectangular tool bag-style shoulder cases, and oversized pockets to add a functional touch to the entire look.
Cleverly styled, with plenty of silk scarves as belts and straps, despite a rushed soundtrack, led by ‘Summertime Clothing’ via Animal Group. For a winter collection? However, this is a small misnomer of an impressive show and the strongest collection to date by Jil Sander’s house by their design duo Lucie and Luke Meier. They bowed with quiet solemnity and then kissed as they strolled into the backstage of the cathedral.
Paul Smith – A Brit’s takes on Breathless
It’s really unfortunate that the pandemic has prevented Paul Smith from staging a runway show and showing only a nine-minute video, as this is the British designer’s most powerful statement in years.
Inspired by the Nouvelle Vague and the great icons of indie cinema, all items from some instant collectors silk and cotton shirts in bright graphic borders on movie posters France in the sixties.
“Breathless very modern. I saw it for the first time when I was 18 and lived in Nottingham and those French movies were amazing,” enjoyed Smith, during a private presentation at its Paris headquarters, the stone Marais castle.
In the collection, he even wore blue clothes from the David Lynch movies and an oversized two-piece Prince of Wales jacket. The Man Who Fell to Earth. The music for the video – where the models parade in a ballroom – was composed exclusively by Richard Hartley, Paul’s former partner, who composed the music for the song. Rocky Horror Picture Show and work with Nicolas Roeg.
Lots of great hand-knit sweaters, caps and scarves – great chunky sweaters handcrafted in Scotland in raspberry and Air Force blue.
Plus, Sir Paul created a sophisticated volume, plaid crepe pants with unexpected reverse pleats, like the pants Bowie wore in the rock legend’s iconic image. in Smith’s wide leg pants and very thin sweater. Another cinematic reference are the maroon and red tight shearling coats in the style favored by Jean-Luc Godard.
“The great thing is that these people are film critics, like Godard, who said, ‘I wanted to do something different.’ And he made his first film for £40,000. So that was a huge inspiration for me to start my own store and brand,” explains Sir Paul.
Isabel Marant – The couch, not the clothes
Perhaps it was fatigue after 10 consecutive days of showing and presenting menswear, but at first glance, the most interesting thing in Isabel Marant’s showroom were the couches.
Magnificent, undulating, opaque gray leather couches; they have a nostalgic-modern style that the clothes lack in a terrible way. This winter of 2022 is full of chunky wool that is comfortable, but looks too regular, ahem, mediocre.
One thing to expect from Marant’s clothes and shows is a lot of zing, but all the contrasting winter hoodies; oversized parkas in yellow and green Verona; Loosely woven ski pullovers, are casual, rather cool.
That said, there are some great denim looks, with apache motifs; The khaki shirt and blouse and some nice jeans have cracked marble prints. It all boils down to the grace of the collection – several turtlenecks, the stellar men’s version of the world-famous women’s sneakers, featured Isabel.
However, one’s surviving memory will always be a lesson learned.
Jeanerica – Euro denim in Marais
Blue denim fanaticism is real at Jeanerica, a Swedish brand based on an undying love for the world’s most democratic fabric.
Launched in 2018 by a former Acne employee and Scandinavian fashion expert, Jeanerica offers all sorts of slimline silhouettes made of high-quality Italian denim. Woven fabrics have become strong but also very resilient. Made in Turkey, in sustainably inclined factories, tailored jeans and blouses and safari jackets all look very classy, in a presentation at the Marais. Supported by a wonderful combination of colors: bleu de nuit; pacific blue; bright and blue ecru is washed.
Add in some great sweatshirts, created from a combination of recycled and reused cotton to “create a bubbly hand and finish,” says founder Jonas Clason, former director of Acne Studios explain. He founded Jeanerica as a European denim manufacturer with Lena Patriksson Keller, founder and president of the Patriksson Group and member of the board of directors of H&M.
Jeanerica is certainly not generic.
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